Wines from Jura: an expert guide and the best bottles to buy

Landscape of the medevial old town of Château-Châlon (Chateau Chalon) with the remains of the ancient castle walls, the church, stone houses and vines in the foreground. Jura, Franche Comte (Franche-Comté), Eastern France.

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A guide to wines from Jura
Best wines from Jura to buy
Where to stay in Jura

A guide to wines from Jura

East of Burgundy and tucked up by the Swiss border, remote Jura is France’s smallest wine region, accounting for around only 0.2% of total production. Only a decade or so ago its unique and diverse wines made by impassioned winemakers were virtually unknown outside the area, but now they’re hot on the lips of switched-on sommeliers and geeky drinkers everywhere.

Vin jaune is Jura’s most famous and distinctive wine. Made from the local white savagnin grape, it is aged in oak barrels for at least six years. A layer of yeast grows on the surface of the wine, similar to the flor in sherry, which imparts its characteristic nutty, earthy, deeply savoury notes. The barrel is not topped up so the wine slowly evaporates and oxidises, losing around 40% of its volume, which is why vin jaune is sold in squat 62cl bottles called clavelins.

Wines released with less than six years ageing under the flor – called sous voile – may also be made with chardonnay and have a less extreme flavour profile, while ouillé refers to wines that are topped up so remain unoxidised and are generally fresher and more zesty but still distinctly Juran.

Trousseau and poulsard (also known as ploussard) are the native red grapes, both beautifully delicate and ethereal, while crémant du Jura is the local méthode champenoise fizz. Vin de paille is made from grapes laid out to partially dry on straw mats before they are pressed, concentrating the sugars and giving a luscious sweet wine.

Unfortunately, Jura’s cult status among the wine cognoscenti has coincided with a series of terrible harvests as extreme weather events become more frequent and severe – around 70% of 2024’s crop was lost – with wetter growing seasons proving particularly challenging for the region’s many organic producers who are unable to spray with fungicides to keep damaging mildews at bay. Their scarcity means prices are steep but these are really spellbinding wines from a spellbinding region and should be on the radar of all inquisitive drinkers.

Best wines to buy from Jura

Domaine Marie-Pierre Chevassu Savagnin Ouillé

Available from Sip Wines (£31.60)

Marie-Pierre Chevassu, one of the few female winemakers in the region, grew up with her three sisters on her family’s small estate which she now runs, farming sustainably and making traditional wine with a lightness of touch. This stunning savagnin has complex layers of fragrant orchard fruit, creamy meringue and salted lemons – rich but with a brisk acidity that makes it very compelling.

Domaine Jean-Louis Tissot Vin Jaune

Available from Yapp Brothers (£45)

Arbois Vin Jaune 2016 Tissot single copy

A shining example of classic vin jaune from this established branch of the famous Tissot family. Exuberant but elegant with vin jaune’s classic nutty, yeasty, umami punch. A wine to be contemplated – best with the local aged comté cheese, or anything with a creamy sauce – the famous dish of the region, chicken cooked with cream, vin jaune and morels, is a bullseye match.

Jean-Luc Mouillard ‘Sur La Cour’ Trousseau

Available from Wanderlust Wine (£23)

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The trousseau grape is known as bastardo in Portugal, where it is used to make port. In Jura it becomes something completely different and totally delicious – this is made from organic grapes naturally fermented, a delicate balance of red berries, orange peel, wet leaves, some smoke and a bit of spice. Serve it slightly chilled.

Where to stay in Jura

The pretty town of Arbois in Jura is small but with plenty going on and is a great base to explore this beautiful and still largely undiscovered region, which has lots to offer outdoorsy types as well as wine lovers. The comfy hotel Les Caudalies is owned by famous sommelier Philippe Troussard and his family, and has an incredible wine list along with excellent food and a really lovely garden. For more low-key eating and drinking, hang out with local winemakers at the very jolly Le Bistrot des Claquets, or Le Bec Bunsen in the town square, while Les Jardins de St Vincent is the town’s best wine shop. Don’t miss the Maison de Louis Pasteur – the famous scientist lived and worked here most of his life, and his restored house is now a fascinating museum. lescaudalies.fr