Mumbai cuisine: 10 things we love

The Gateway of India, monument commemorating the landing of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India, Asia

10 things we love about the cuisine of Mumbai

Sassoon Docks at dawn

One of the city’s busiest fishing hubs, Sassoon Docks is a sensory overload – think glistening seafood being unloaded, the smell of the ocean and the constant banter of fishermen and vendors. Arrive by 5:30am and you’ll see the day’s freshest catch: huge pomfrets, kingfish and prawns being auctioned off before the sun even rises. Everything here is sold fresh, never frozen, which is rare in today’s fast-food world.

Street food on Mohammed Ali Road

When it comes to street food, bustling, chaotic Mohammed Ali Road is legendary. The air is filled with the smoky aroma of kebabs sizzling on open grills and the heady scent of biryanis being served in massive pots. One of my must-tries is crispy, tangy chilli paneer – a spicy, sweet delight. Then head to the Indian Hotel where rotis and rolls are fried on giant pans. Take a stroll with a wrap and a refreshing coconut water.

Chole puri halwa – a breakfast classic

Pancham Puriwala is a tiny, unassuming joint but it serves up one of Mumbai’s most beloved breakfasts: chole puri halwa. The spicy chickpeas, paired with puri (fluffy deep-fried bread) and a sweet, ghee-laden halwa, is an unbeatable combination. It’s the kind of meal that keeps you full for hours.

Permit rooms

Established during the 1960s prohibition era, Mumbai’s permit rooms were a creative solution to strict alcohol laws. Today these cosy establishments are a melting pot of camaraderie, where people gather over spicy snacks like chilli chicken and a cold beer. You’ll find the best in Bandra district. Experience the vibe for yourself in the UK, where Dishoom has just opened its third Permit Room, in Oxford, with a fourth coming in the spring on Portobello Road, London.

Chai

Served in shot-size glasses or terracotta cups, chai is a morning ritual for Bombayites. This infusion of black tea, ginger, spices, whole milk and sugar (or jaggery) is served at the roadside from tiny stalls with a single bubbling pot or in cafés throughout the city. There are many twists on the basics but Café de la Paix is my go-to. Owner Gustad adds mint and lemongrass for a unique zing.

Pav bhaji and vada pav – Mumbai's comfort food

Pav bhaji, a spiced mash of vegetables served with buttered bread rolls, contains all your calories for a week but it’s addictively delicious. Head to Sardar for a classic rendition, where the bhaji is topped with an obscene amount of butter. For vada pav – the city’s answer to the burger – Ashok is my go-to. A deep-fried potato patty is sandwiched in a pav (bun) and smothered in spicy chutney. Double-carb heaven!

Sunset over Marine Drive

As the sun dips into the Arabian Sea, Marine Drive – known as the Queen’s Necklace – comes alive as workers and families escape the heat of the city to stroll along the promenade and people-watch while cooling down with a crispy bhel puri and a mango or pistachio kulfi at Girgaon Chowpatty.

Irani cafés

From their décor to the menus, cafés such as Olympia, Britannia & Co and Leopold are the inspiration behind Dishoom’s UK restaurants. They’re more than places to eat – they’re landmarks of inclusivity, where people of all classes and nationalities come for breakfast or lunch. A stand-out dish for me is Olympia’s keema bhurji – spiced lamb with creamy scrambled egg.

The iconic Bombay sandwich

You have never had a toastie like this! Layers of sliced cucumber, beetroot, onions and tomatoes are piled onto slices of soft white bread, smeared with spicy green chutney, before being toasted over coals, then topped with grated cheese. The best stalls are found in the Churchgate district.

Fresh roast and pounded spices

For a unique sensory experience, head to Chavan Brothers on the street. You’ll see (and smell) them roasting fresh spices in the open air – cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, the works. Pick up some freshly roasted spices to take home and recreate Mumbai’s flavours in your own kitchen.

5 places to eat and drink in Mumbai

Thali at Shree Thaker Bhojanalay

Comprising around 20 different dishes, Shree Thaker Bhojanalay is a true celebration of vegetarian cuisine. The gigantic platters include garlic chutney, spiced lentil dumplings and fluffy dhokla, plus a selection of breads and curries. The waiters are barefoot – a hygiene measure reflecting a time when the food was eaten sitting on the floor. Get here early: the queue snakes along the corridor, down the stairs and along the street. Instagram @shreethakerbhojanalay

Breakfast at Olympia Coffee House

For a taste of old Bombay, Olympia Coffee House is a must-visit. My favourite dish is its keema pav, made with minced lamb or goat, onions and yellow chilli powder. The addition of dill gives it a distinct flavour. Paired with fresh bread and a fried egg, this hearty breakfast is so satisfying that many locals skip lunch.

Ice cream sandwiches at K Rustom

No visit to Mumbai is complete without ice cream from K Rustom. Located near Marine Drive, it’s an iconic spot where locals enjoy various flavours while strolling along the beach. My favourites include guava with chilli and custard apple. The combination of sweet and spicy captures the essence of Mumbai’s street food culture.

Fish curry at Gables

Gables restaurant offers a slice of Goa in Mumbai. Founded by owner Stephen’s grandfather, this hidden gem serves authentic Goan dishes, including fiery fish curry, but also surprises, such as a full English breakfast, reflecting the ever-changing tastes of this always moving city. Instagram @gables_restaurant

Indian whisky

Indian whisky stands out with its unique character, gaining popularity through brands like Amrut, Indri and Paul John. Unlike UK whiskies, Indian varieties mature quickly due to the tropical climate, offering bolder flavours with notes of spice and vanilla. Enjoy it neat at upscale bars or mix it with Thums Up cola in permit rooms for a refreshing drink.

Where to stay in Mumbai

The Taj Mahal Palace

Situated in the cultural heart of the city, The Taj Mahal Palace is more than a hotel — it’s your gateway to Mumbai’s rich history. Landmarks like Marine Drive, the Shivaji Maharaj Museum and, of course, the Gateway of India are all just a stone’s throw away. Since opening its doors in 1903, this architectural masterpiece has seamlessly blended Indian, Islamic and European styles. Staying here is a truly opulent experience The hotel boasts 285 beautifully curated rooms, including 42 suites. Such luxury doesn’t come cheap, with prices ranging from £290 for a deluxe experience to £4,850 for the Taj’s most exclusive suites. The dining scene at the Taj is also remarkable. With nine restaurants to choose from, you can experience Japanese cuisine at Wasabi by Morimoto, or savour the aromatic Indian spices at Masala Kraft. There’s also Golden Dragon for authentic Chinese dishes, and the Sea Lounge, where high tea comes with a side of sweeping harbour views. The hotel offers a serene luxury spa and a shimmering outdoor pool — perfect for unwinding after a day exploring the vibrant streets of South Mumbai. tajhotels.com

Abode Bombay

In the bustling Colaba district, Abode Bombay is a 25-room boutique gem that captures Mumbai’s colonial elegance with a contemporary twist. Its handmade Bharat tiles, vintage furniture and a sprinkling of Indian art create a sense of oasis away from the chaos and energy of the surrounding streets. In 1910, the hotel was the private residence of David Sassoon, an entrepreneur during the city’s commercial heyday. A local family specialising in antiquities acquired the property in 1982 and offered it as a guesthouse for decades until it became a boutique hotel in 2013. While there’s no full-service restaurant, the Adobe has an all-day menu of light bites in its charming dining room or for in-room indulgence. Room rates start at just £59 a night for a double, with Superior Luxury rooms offering added space and luxe touches. For relaxation, Abode Bombay works with the Victoria Medical School for the Blind, training massage therapists. Just a short walk from the Gateway of India, it’s a great way to relax after a long day in the heat of the busy streets. abodeboutiquehotels.com

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Arun Tilak